When it comes to nature, Angus has it in abundance, from Highland glens to golden sands and everything in between. There aren’t many better woodland walks than through the Blue Door and alongside the Rocks of Solitude. Even in February, the leaves were still carpeting the ground as I trekked beneath the barren trees.
The winter rain and snowmelt made the River North Esk just a bit more impressive as it forced its way through the rocky gorge. However, that was nothing compared to the noise of the River Isla as it poured down the Reekie Linn.
The short walk from the car park is one that I’m very familiar with, but the roar of that waterfall never ceases to amaze me. Reekie Linn means smoky pool and the viewpoint was shrouded in a misty spray. It’s one of the most impressive displays of nature in Angus, if not all of Scotland!
Getting out into nature doesn’t always have to mean travelling to some remote spot or finding something loud and imposing. That was proved to me at Murton Nature Reserve near Forfar. As well as a collection of rescued animals, there are dozens of wild species waiting to be found on a walk around the reserve.
It only took around an hour to stroll the well-made trail through the wetlands and lochs, keeping an eye out for birds, squirrels and wildflowers along the way. If I’d reserved one of the Ramble Rucksacks in advance, I think I would have been there half a day!
A day hiking in the Angus Glens is always a treat, but there’s far more than nature to find there.
Starting with the Glenesk Folk Museum, it’s a treasure trove of artefacts telling stories of the past. Knowing what life was like in rural farming communities like this is a critical part of understanding Scottish culture.
It’s one of the best wee museums in Scotland and no matter how many times I visit, there’s always something I haven’t seen before. Volunteer-led enterprises like this are also one of the best ways to find out local information and it’s worth stopping here on your way to the end of the glen.
A short walk from the car park at Lochlee Parish Church took me past the soaring Invermark Castle, silently guarding against the ghosts of Cateran raiders. On the banks of loch stand the ruins of a church dedicated to St Drostan. Once the focal point of a community long gone, now it’s a quiet place, somewhere to sit and let your mind wander.
It’s a similar tale throughout the Glens and I got another taste of it with a self-guided tour of Kirkton of Glenisla courtesy of the Cateran Ecomuseum. There are stories to go with each step of the trail around this historic community, starting at the ancient Lady’s Well and over the Brackny Bridge to climb Druim Dearg.
There’s an abundance of culture all over Angus, but nothing can be as iconic as the Arbroath Smokie!
Protected by law, these delicious smoked haddock can only be made within 5 miles of the coastal town by a strict traditional process. Enjoying a fresh smokie beside the harbour is one of life’s simple pleasures.
Following the Arbroath Heritage Trail took me from the harbour to the Signal Tower Museum, another historical icon of the town. Built over 200 years ago to communicate with the Bell Rock Lighthouse, one of the marvels of the engineering world, the museum inside now tells the history of Arbroath.
The heritage trail is packed with local stories, from the Fit o the Toon, where fishing folk lived beside the Brothock Burn, to Arbroath’s oldest house. Eventually, the route led me to Arbroath Abbey, one of the most important historical sites in Scotland. Built in 1178 by King William the Lion, you can find his burial site marked by a stone where the high altar once stood.
Arbroath Abbey’s story is intrinsically linked to a document that’s been called the greatest surviving piece of medieval prose in the world – the Declaration of Arbroath. This letter to the Pope from the Barons of Scotland is thought to have been written by Abbot Bernard of Arbroath in 1320.
It was a plea to recognise Robert the Bruce as Scotland’s rightful King and to negotiate a peace with England. The story is perfectly told in the abbey visitor centre, especially by the audio-visual display. I lost myself in an interactive screen, packed with information behind every seal attached to the Declaration, telling me which nobles put their name to the document and why.
History jumps out at you when you visit Arbroath Abbey, it’s majestic even in its ruined state. There’s no doubting that this was a place of real importance. However, there are many subtler places of hidden history scattered around Angus.
Right in the heart of Forfar, an important site can be found buried behind the modern buildings. After picking up a key from Ali’s Newsagents, I made my way through the gate on Canmore Street and up the steps to Castlehill. If you didn’t know about it, there’s no way you would know that this was once the site of an important royal fortress.
Parliaments have been held there and sieges were won and lost, with Forfar Castle passing back and forward during the Wars of Independence. Climbing to the top of the old Mercat Cross that was moved up there in the 18th century, the 360 degree views of Forfar are spectacular. It’s no wonder this was the perfect place for a castle until Robert the Bruce had it destroyed so it could never be used against the Scots again.
Thought to have been fortified as far back as the Pictish period, those ancient inhabitants have left their mark all over Angus. There’s no better place in Scotland to find Pictish Stones, even if their symbols remain a mystery. My personal favourites are the Aberlemno Stones, but when covered during the winter months, a visit to the Meffan Museum instead brings me face to face with some amazing examples.
From the mountains to the coast, my trip around Angus was the perfect blend of nature, culture and history. Every corner had a fascinating story to tell and every walk had immense beauty to enjoy. No matter how many times I visit, there always seems to be something new to uncover. Maybe that’s what I find so special about Angus!
Guest blog by Graeme Johncock, Scotland’s Stories.
